S.R.S Easy Fit & Trim Installation Procedure

Click Here to download PDF

• Installing Trims & Accessories
• Installing the Easy Fit Membrane
• Seaming Joints and Laps
• Sealing Laps and Joins
• Catalyst to Resin/Topcoat Ratios

System (E1) is suitable for use on most roofing applications including the overlaying of existing membranes.

1. Unless you are using the S.R.S drip trim WITH the incorporated stand off facility you are advised to firstly fix a tannalised timber batten (25mmx50mm) approximately 25mm below the roof deck directly fixed to the facia which will serve as a spacer and position the trim directlyover the gutter.
2. Fix the appropriate corners by nailing the horizontal flanges to the deck using clout nails or similar galvanised broad head nails.
3. Apply polyurethane mastic to the internal joiner, locate and bring together the joiner and trim, wipe off any excess mastic and fix the trim to the roof as previously described.

4. If you need to cut trim to length use either a hacksaw or a metal cutting/diamond disc on a small grinder. Use an internal or external joiner to complete the joint.
5. In some instances the trim joint may need holding together whilst the mastic sets.We provide colour matched fixing buttons for the purpose, which are very easy to use. Simply put the trims together, drill a 3mm hole through both trims over the joint on the front face and at the bottom of the trim and push the fixing button through the hole.
6. Accessories such as the deck to wall trim are generally installed on the top of the membrane and should therefore be installed after it is in place.
7. Deck to wall trims should be butt jointed and fitted snugly to abutments and fixed into place with clout nails or similar galvanised broad head nails.
8. S.R.S. wall flashings are installed into a pre cut chase of not less than 30mm deep and sealed into the wall preferably with pointing mastic.
9. Termination trims. Mark the wall through the pre made counter sunk holes, drill and plug the wall, loose fix the trim with 40/50mm screws leaving sufficient space to apply a bead of polyurethane mastic to the rear top of the trim, apply mastic and screw the trim tightly back to the wall.

The upper side of the sheet is the one with the protective covering which when removed will expose a fine textured finish.The reverse side, the one that faces downward, has a rougher matt type look. Ideally the membrane should be installed with any joints running in line with the fall of the roof. For covenience and ease of handling when working on smaller roofs it may be easier to measure the lengths of sheet you require cut them and re roll them at ground level.When calculating the lengths of sheet you require, allow for them to butt joint perimeter trims.

1. Calculate how many sheets wide the roof is and the starting point for fixing the first sheet, temporarily fix the sheet top and bottom to hold it in place.
2. It is advisable to lay the sheets flat for a few moments prior to fixing, this allows them to relax after they have been rolled up.
3. Roll out the second sheet so that the edge butt joints the edge of the first sheet and temporarily fix top and bottom.
4. Fix the pressure washers at 400 mm centres over both edges of the membrane sheet and the centre of the join. Always fix from one end working towards the other and not intermediately.
5. Continue as above until the roof membrane has been completely fixed.
6. Install other required accessories such as deck to wall fillets etc.

1. The glass fibre reinforcement (mat bandage) is available in various widths, for most joints and laps a 100mm wide matt is used.
2. Pour sufficient resin into a bucket or pot, you will require approximately 1kilo of resin for each 10 linear metres of 100mm wide mat.
3. Add catalyst (hardener) to the resin and stir thoroughly.The amount of catalyst you should add to the resin will depend on the temperature and the amount of time you require before the resin starts to set. 1% is the minimum amount of catalyst added and 4% the maximum, 20 millilitres per kilo is a typical average to achieve sufficient working time.
4. Apply the catalysed resin to the areas to be laminated by brush or roller, lay the mat into the resin and apply more resin to the surface ensuring that the mat is adequately soaked, leave the resin to soak into the mat for a minute or two and then consolidate it and remove any air with a consolidating roller or by stippling it with a brush. For the mat and resin to be properly consolidated the mat fibres will virtually disappear and the laminate will become transparent.
5. Allow laminated joint to cure, this will take between 30 minutes and 120 minutes dependent on the amount of catalyst added to the resin and the temperature, sufficient curing has taken place when it is not possible to lift strands of glass fibre from the laminate.
6. The roof is now ready for the final coat. Pour flow-coat into a clean bucket, you will require 500 grams per square metre of area to be covered, add catalyst (hardener) of between 1 & 3% stir in thoroughly and apply with a brush or roller.
7. If using slate granules for the finish, liberally sprinkle these on to the wet top - coat as you apply it at the rate of approximately 2 kilos per sqm, any excess can be swept off when the roof has cured.

Further information contact S.R.S on 01784246 495

Step 1 Apply Catalysed resin to the areas to be laminated
Step 2 Lay the glass fibre mat into the resin
Step 3 Apply catalysed resin to the glass fibre mat
Step 4 Remove any air and consolidate with paddle roller
Step 5 Apply catalysed flow-coat over all G.R.P.
If required liberally sprinkle slate granules over the wet flow-coat.

The percentage of catalyst you should add depends on the working time you require and the air temperature at the time of application.